Tom Ford joined Gucci as creative director in 1994 and left in 2004. The decade he spent there produced some of the most influential — and currently most collected — fashion of the late twentieth century.
The context
Gucci in 1994 was a house in serious difficulty — financially distressed, aesthetically adrift, trading on a heritage it hadn't updated in decades. Ford's response was total: he stripped the house back to its equestrian codes and rebuilt from there, adding a charged sensuality that was entirely his own. The 1995 collection — velvet, leather, the GG belt — announced a new visual language that the industry immediately absorbed.
The defining pieces
- Velvet pieces: the velvet suits, jackets, and trousers from the Ford era are the most immediately recognisable pieces of the period. The pile density and colour depth of authentic pieces is difficult to replicate.
- The GG belt: the most copied accessory of the era. Authentic versions have a cast metal buckle with precise engraving and a leather strap of consistent thickness.
- Leather pieces: Ford's leather jackets and trousers are among the most technically accomplished of the period. The leather is full-grain and develops a patina that synthetic alternatives cannot replicate.
- Tailoring: the suits from the Ford era — particularly the women's tailoring — have a precision and a confidence that reflects the house's direction at its peak.
What to pay
A Tom Ford Gucci velvet jacket in Excellent condition currently sits between €1,200 and €2,500 depending on the specific piece and colourway. The market has been stable for two years after significant appreciation in 2020-2022.
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