Vintage sizing is one of the most consistent sources of disappointment for first-time archive shoppers—and one of the most easily avoidable. The problem isn’t that vintage clothes run small. The problem is that the numbers mean something different.
Why vintage sizes are different
Until the 1980s, the European sizing system was based on body measurements, not on standardized cutting blocks. A 1975 French size 40 corresponds to actual bust, waist, and hip measurements of a 40cm half-circumference—which is roughly a modern size 36-38 depending on the brand and decade.
What’s more, earlier decades' silhouettes were constructed with less ease—less extra fabric built into the pattern for movement. A 1970s YSL jacket will fit closer to the body than a modern jacket of the same stated size.
How to measure yourself properly
Before buying a vintage piece, take three measurements:
- Bust: measure around the fullest part of your chest, arms relaxed at your sides.
- Waist: measure at your natural waist, not where you wear your pants.
- Hips: measure around the fullest part, typically 8-9 inches below the natural waist.
Compare these measurements to the garment’s measurements, not the stated size on the label. At ALE PARIS, every piece is measured flat and listed with the garment's actual dimensions.
Peculiarities by house
Different houses cut differently. Chanel suits are narrow at the shoulders and short on the sleeves. YSL Rive Gauche trousers are cut for a longer torso. Mugler is structured to create a silhouette—the cut is intentional and uncompromising, which is the point.
What can and cannot be altered
A jacket can be taken in at the side seams, but cannot be let out beyond the seam allowance—typically 0.5-0.75 inches on vintage pieces. Shoulders cannot be altered without significant cost and visible risk. Before buying, ask: what are the garment's actual measurements and what is the seam allowance?